Icefields Parkway, eh!

For the next 145 miles we’ll be riding the Icefields Parkway, from Jasper to Lake Louise.

Here, the journey is the destination.

And we’re off!

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The story of the Icefields Parkway began 50 million years ago. Fierce tectonic forces pushed the ocean floor and transformed it into the mountains that today make up the Canadian Rockies.

By the end of the 19^th century, the Canadian Pacific Railway responded to the growing interest in mountaineering in the Rockies by giving seasonal contracts to Swiss guides. They led mountaineers and tourists in explorations of the area. Meanwhile, to the north, tourism in the region was also gathering momentum with the establishment of Jasper National Park in 1907 and the Grand Trunk (not to be confused with Grand Funk) Pacific Railway reaching Jasper in 1911.

As an economic project during the Depression Era, the Government of Canada decided to transform what was then known as the “Wonder Trail” into a single-track road. In 1931, construction began for the Icefields Highway: a new road that would make the famous mountain path accessible to everyone.

It took 600 men nearly 10 years to complete the project. Workers were paid about $5 a month with a stipend for clothing and tobacco. With only one tractor per crew, most of the work was completed by hand, and with teams of horses.

The Icefield Parkway was the first road in the world that could take people to the “toe” of a glacier. This photo was taken around 1940 and shows the Athabasca Glacier in the background.

At first, the 18-foot-wide road was gravel and dirt, before being paved, realigned, and modernized in 1961.

The road, the first in the world that could take people to the “toe” of a glacier (its lowest end), was completed in 1940. Described as a “wonder trail,” the highway was the brainchild of Arthur Oliver Wheeler, the principal land surveyor in charge of plotting the border between Alberta and British Columbia in the early 1900s.

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Randy points the way.

We follow the Athabasca River from Jasper, south and east on the Icefields Parkway. The Athabasca River runs some 765 miles from the Columbia Icefield in Jasper National Park northeast to Lake Athabasca in northern Alberta and Saskatchewan.

Four tourists at Athabasca Falls.

Twenty miles out of Jasper, we find Athabasca Falls, just off the parkway. From the roadside parking lot, it’s a short hike to the falls – and well worth the effort. A series of short and easy pathways take visitors along these impressive cascades and up close to the roaring falls themselves.

The Falls provide a nice photo spot.

Athabasca Falls is about 75 feet high, not much compared to other more famous waterfalls, but it’s very powerful. Its power comes from the sheer volume of water flowing into the gorge from the Athabasca River, fed by the massive Columbia Icefield.

It’s definitely worth the two weeks it took to get here.

Only 15 miles past Athabasca Falls, we come to Sunwapta Falls. With a drop of 61 feet, Sunwapta Falls consists of an upper and lower fall with a hike that will get you close enough to feel the mist. It’s a Class 6 waterfall, meaning it’s unrunnable, and you’re likely to die if you try.

To get to Sunwapta Falls, you hike about a mile. It won’t kill you.

Sunwapta Falls: a bit of a hike, but well worth it.

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The Columbia Icefield, composed of eight glaciers and encompassing an area of about 200 miles, sits near the halfway mark on the Icefields Parkway.  This ice mass is one of the largest south of the Arctic Circle and is one of the most reachable in North America.  The Athabasca, Snowdome, and Stutfield Glaciers can be seen from the parkway.

Near the glacier, or what’s left of it.

The Athabasca Glacier is a 10,000-year-old sheet of ice, nearly four miles long, and up to 1,000 feet thick. The glacier has lost 60 percent of its volume in the last 170 years. The Athabasca Glacier is receding about 16 feet a year. Experts believe it will be completely gone within 70 years.

Commercial tours are available to irun tourists up the glacier in the summer. The three-hour round-trip costs about $90.

Seeing the Athabasca Glacier up close and personal.

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At Bow Summit, plotting our next move.

We cross the Saskatchewan River, then arrive at Bow Summit. At 6,840 feet, it’s the highest point on the drive from Banff to Jasper. The summit is the highest elevation crossed by a public road in Canada. Bow Summit, in Banff National Park, provides a stunning overlook of the Bow Valley.

From here, we’re only 20 miles from Lake Louise, world famous for its turquoise lakes, the Victoria Glacier, spectacular mountains, a world-class ski resort and a palatial hotel.

This is the palatial hotel. We are worthy.

We begin our Lake Louise exploration by visiting the Lake Louise Ski Resort. If I’m anywhere near a world-class ski area on a Harley trip, I’ve pretty much got to visit it. Tradition, you know. Lake Louise epitomizes world-class.

The resort is the first stop every year on the FIS Alpine Ski World Cup circuit. In November 2021, Sofia Goggia of Italy won both the women’s downhill and Super-G. Matthias Mayer of Austria won the men’s downhill; the men’s Super-G was cancelled due to heavy snowfall.

Sofia Goggia of Italy had success at the 2021 World Cup at Lake Louise.

So did Mathias Meyer.

This year, the Lake Louise men’s downhill and Super-G will be held November 25-27, and the women’s events will be held December 2-4.

Lake Louise doesn’t get to have all the ski racing fun. Those of us who live in Colorado and love skiing are pretty stoked about the recent announcement that Aspen will host men’s FIS downhill and super-G races in early March, 2023.

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At Lake Moraine, just outside the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise.

A well-known tourist poses by the lake.

You can’t say you’ve been to Lake Louise without stopping at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, a historic and elegant hotel sitting square on the lake. Built in 1890 by Canadian Pacific Hotels, a division of the Canadian Pacific Railway Company, it’s considered a grand railway hotel.

We stop at the hotel for a drink. Nice view from our table.

The Fairmont Chateau is not exactly falling down. Its 539 rooms were renovated in 2016. The Chateau is considered a five-star hotel. It should be; the best deal we could find for tonight gets us a basic room for $835, including taxes and fees. For another $85 a night, you can bring a pet. Valet parking is $45 a day. Let’s just round up and call it a cool $1,000 a night. Whether in Canadian or US funds, that’s still a major splurge.

Or, you can spend $100 for drinks and fries. That’s what we chose to do.

Other grand railway hotels in Canada include the Banff Springs Hotel; the Chateau Frontenac in Quebec City; the Chateau Laurier in Ottawa; the Place Viger in Montreal; the Algonquin Resort in New Brunswick, the Empress in Victoria, British Columbia.

You could easily do a grand railway hotel tour, perhaps on a Harley. It would last all summer, and leave you virtually penniless.

In a few minutes, we could begin our Alberta-based version of a grand railway tour, visiting the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel, 39 miles down the road.

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The Banff hotel opened in 1888, one of the earliest of Canada’s grand railway hotels. It sits at the southern boundary of Banff, a resort town within Banff National Park. The area was named Banff in 1884 by George Stephen, president of the Canadian Pacific Railway, recalling his birthplace near Banff, Scotland.

Of course, the Fairmont Banff Springs hotel does not disappoint. With 757 guest rooms and suites, the hotel is the epitome of elegance. It’s a wonder they let us in the front door.

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Wrapping things up at the Fairmont.

Both the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise and the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel are a bit more upscale than where we’re staying tonight.

We’re heading for Canmore, about 15 miles east of here on the Trans-Canada Highway. Originally a sleepy mining town, Canmore now has a population of about 15,000, The city grew like crazy after the International Olympic Committee announced that the 1988 Winter Olympics would be held in Calgary, 50 miles to the east.

The Canmore Nordic Centre was developed to host the Nordic events at the Calgary Olympics.

These skiers have the Calgary Winter Games to thank for the Canmore Nordic Centre.

The alpine events for the Calgary Olympics were held in Nakiska, about 30 miles from Canmore. The ski area opened in 1986, in preparation for the 1988 Winter Games.

Nakiska, site of the 1988 Winter Olympic alpine events.

Nakiska is a Cree word meaning “meeting place.”

Tonight, our meeting place in Canmore is at the Blackstone Mountain Lodge.

It’s not five-star, but meets all our requirements: hot shower, clean sheets, free parking.

Vroom!

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To view today’s route in Google Maps, click here.

My number today: $113 (the cost of dinner for one at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, if you have a 22-ounce Bone-In Striploin, Steak Fries, and a Beet Salad; beverages and tip are not included. A bottle of Cabernet will add $250 to your bill.)

What’s your number?